For 22 years, Giovanni Pilu has been synonymous with Sardinian cuisine at his beloved Freshwater restaurant. Now, with the opening of Flaminia at Circular Quay, he's embarking on his most ambitious project yet—a culinary journey through Italy's port cities.
The harbourside restaurant, named after the ship that brought co-owner Marilyn Annecchini's family to Australia in the 1950s, draws inspiration from Napoli, Cagliari, Venezia, Genova, and Palermo. It's a concept Pilu calls both liberating and challenging.
"What if we looked at the harbour and went from there?" Pilu asked when conceptualising the venue. The result: four dishes from each port city, a crudo bar with dressings inspired by each location, and a firm "no burrata, no tiramisu" rule.
The Good Food Guide has already awarded Flaminia one hat and a score of 16/20, praising Pilu's precise cooking. Standout dishes include charred toast wearing a sweep of baccalà mantecato from Venice, half-moons of crisp-fried mozzarella in carrozza from Naples, and sweet spaghetti with spanner crab and lemon myrtle from Sardinia.
"Deep red crudo of yellowfin tuna over pickled fennel topped with amber slices of bottarga," described one reviewer. "Handmade pasta with sauces that capture the intensity of the sea."
For those seeking something more substantial, there's even a half-suckling pig option at $550, perfect for sharing among a group.
The restaurant occupies a picturesque position in the Pullman Quay Grand hotel, offering stunning harbour views. Initial offers were rejected, but once Pilu saw the site, inspiration struck.
"Italian is the food of the people," notes food critic David Matthews, "but eating Pilu's cooking is a reminder that someone who dedicates their life to fine-tuning the craft can build in layers that others just don't have the faculty to unlock."
The wine list features a strong showing of Sardinian and Italian wines, grounding the venue in authenticity while celebrating coastal elegance.