Liliana is named after a woman Chef Marvin Palomo has never forgotten — the first chef he worked for in Italy, whose influence shaped not just his cooking but his entire philosophy of hospitality. Now, with his own restaurant on Queen Street West, Palomo is paying homage to everyone who inspired him while creating something entirely new.
"This is a reflection of everywhere I've worked in Italy and Asia and all the chefs I've worked for," Palomo explains. After serving as executive chef at Vela for three years, he opened Liliana in late September to immediate acclaim.
The restaurant occupies a charming heritage home where concrete and brick walls soften under the glow of paper lanterns, creating an atmosphere that feels both sophisticated and welcoming. The menu reads classically Italian at first glance — antipasti, primi, secondi, contorni — until you notice the Szechuan demi, umeboshi, dashi vinaigrette, and xoxo sauce that signal something more adventurous.
What makes Liliana truly special, however, extends beyond its fusion flavors. In a deliberate choice to welcome all guests, the restaurant serves only 100 percent halal-certified meat. "We don't want to limit Muslim guests from this type of experience," Palomo says. "We wanted to be able to welcome everybody."
The results speak for themselves. Beef Carpaccio arrives atop miso chili emulsion, topped with furikake and pearl onion petals. House-made Ricotta Agnolotti, stuffed with honeynut squash and dressed in brown butter, cuddles up to fluffy fontina fondue. The Aglio e Olio gets a bold upgrade with chili crisp and pillowy burrata Pugliese.
Chef's Octopus, inspired by a popular dim sum technique, is gently steamed then flash-fried, emerging bouncy, tender, and crisp with tamari and togarashi. For dessert, the Millefoglie with black sesame Chantilly and miso caramel showcases Palomo's gift for transformation.
At Liliana, innovation meets inclusion, and the result is a thoroughly Toronto restaurant: unpretentious, mellow, and unquestionably unique.