When the ferociously spicy Ugly Baby closed in late 2024, crowds descended on Carroll Gardens desperate to burn their tongues on nam prik korad one last time. Chef Sirichai Sreparplarn, they were told, simply needed a "long, long break" and planned to work on a cookbook.
That break was shorter than anyone expected. Ugly Baby will reopen at 364 Grand Street in Williamsburg early this year, with a February opening likely.
"I like to cook and I was very looking forward to cooking," Sreparplarn told ThatNews in an exclusive interview, explaining why the hiatus ended sooner than planned. The pull of the kitchen proved irresistible.
The 2,500-square-foot storefront — previously home to the original Emmy Squared — offers a significant upgrade from the original location. And while the concept remains the same, business partner Som Kharazmi promises Sreparplarn will push "his new menu into a wilder place."
How wild? Sreparplarn is reaching back to his roots. "I want my childhood recipe from my mother to be featured," he revealed. "Raw cow milk mixed with red chili" — a bold, unexpected combination that showcases the chef's willingness to challenge conventional palates.
When asked which dish he's most excited for diners to try, Sreparplarn didn't hesitate: "Raw milk with chili."
The reopening marks more than a culinary comeback — it's a personal triumph. "My ex-husband said I could never do it," Sreparplarn shared. "And here I am doing it. I'm winning."
Sreparplarn is widely credited as a trailblazer for Thai food in New York City. When Ugly Baby first opened in 2017, high-quality Thai restaurants were mostly confined to Elmhurst and surrounding neighborhoods. By the time it closed, elevated Thai dining had become, as Grub Street put it, "the norm" throughout the city.
The new location overlooks a busy stretch of the BQE, and foot traffic can be sparse. But Ugly Baby never wanted for crowds — the restaurant's cult following practically guarantees lines will form regardless of location.
The owners are seeking a full liquor license for the new space, which includes a basement level separate from the main dining room for private parties.
Former employees recently transformed the original Carroll Gardens space into Hungry Thirsty, ensuring that neighborhood didn't lose entirely. But for lovers of Sreparplarn's mouth-numbing som tum and spicy duck salad, the chef's return is the news they've been waiting for.
After all, some breaks are just long enough to make you hungry again.