When Julia Momosé accepted the James Beard Award for Outstanding Bar on behalf of Kumiko in June 2025, she did more than celebrate a personal triumph—she affirmed Chicago's place at the forefront of American cocktail culture.
"Kumiko was born from a belief that hospitality could be quiet, precise, and powerful, that a bar could feel like a conversation," Momosé told the audience at the Lyric Opera in Chicago. Her speech thanked each team member by name and honored her parents, "whose love and generosity live in every plate and every glass we serve at Kumiko."
The West Loop Japanese bar beat out celebrated competitors Scotch Lodge, the Lovers Bar, Water Witch, and Wolf Tree for the honor. It's a recognition of Momosé's decade-long journey refining her craft at establishments like Greenriver, where she worked alongside Nick Kokonas, who himself is now opening the revived Belmont Tavern.
Kumiko's approach defies convention. The intimate space emphasizes intention over showmanship, each cocktail designed as carefully as a kaiseki course. Japanese ingredients and techniques inform drinks that feel both ancient and innovative.
Momosé's acceptance speech also addressed broader concerns. "Even in celebration, I can't help but think about what's going on outside our industry," she said, referencing tensions around immigration. "At Kumiko, we remember every day that we are children of immigrants. Anyone who ever felt they don't belong in this world, you do."
In the press room afterward, Momosé reflected on the honor. "When I first stepped up on the stage, I felt like Kumiko wasn't quite ready yet for this award. I truly do hold the James Beard Award in high regard," she said. "To not be ready is also kind of exciting, because I feel like there's so much potential for us to grow and to be better and to be more impactful in our communities."
For Chicago's hospitality community, Kumiko's win validates what locals have known for years: the city's bar scene rivals—and often surpasses—any in the country.