Something transformative is underway in Copano Bay, an estuary west of Rockport. A family of conservationists is rewiring brains and palates around Texas, proving that Gulf oysters aren't just serviceable — they can be exceptional.
Big Tree Oyster Company, led by Dr. Amy Belaire and Seth Gambill, is one of just 17 fully permitted oyster grow-out operations in Texas. Their success has put high-quality half-shells on menus at top Austin restaurants including Dai Due, Le Calamar, and Barley Swine.
Belaire, a conservation biologist, and Gambill, a marine hydrographer, both grew up in Rockport and reconnected years later at Belaire's mother's memorial. That meeting became a turning point — not just for their romance, but for the Texas oyster industry.
"Texas farmed oysters can go toe-to-toe with any oysters in the country," says James Beard Award-winning author Rowan Jacobsen. "Plump, meaty, and beautifully balanced in sweetness and brine, they are an essential component of any well-curated raw bar."
Texas was the last coastal state to legalize oyster mariculture, passing crucial legislation in 2019. The timing was critical — wild reefs had faced years of crisis from hurricanes and environmental changes.
Big Tree employs a rigorous hands-on approach: tumbling cages every few weeks to thicken shells and deepen cups, and sun-drying weekly to control barnacles. The result is oysters uniform in size, shape, and flavor — bright and briny with a hint of sweetness.
"The balanced salinity with a touch of sweetness puts them over the top," says Casey Wall, executive chef at Le Calamar. "You can taste the brine and the oyster. They offer a true expression of Texas."
For Belaire, oyster farming continues her family's legacy — her parents ran a restoration company rebuilding wetlands and reefs. Farmed oysters are naturally sustainable, filtering up to 50 gallons of water daily. After harvest, Big Tree sends shells to reef restoration groups.
"We want to put more back than we take out," Belaire says.
Their three children help with the business, making it a true family affair. "This is all so new," Belaire says. "Texas is just getting started."